In the twenty-five plus years we have been in the business of working on log homes and selling Weatherall products for wood and log homes, we’ve learned a lot and we’ve also taught a lot. We’ve given training seminars in materials and application to hundreds of chinkers and painters, and given the same types of training and advice to thousands of homeowners.
The following areas cover questions we have gotten most often over the years and the general advice and answers we have given. Many situations are similar, so many questions are similar. However, every situation is also unique, so these answers may not fully address your questions and concerns. In that case, please don’t hesitate to call us.
How difficult is it for a ‘do-it-yourselfer’ to apply chinking?
The system is simple and the products are easy to work with. Read the application instructions and ask us for an application guide. Here are a few things for you to think about when doing your own project:
There is a learning curve for everything. You will not be as skilled at troweling the material: making the edges clean, smooth and well-adhered to the wood, keeping the lines neat and attractive appearance, keeping the optimum material thickness, etc. as will an experienced professional applicator. But you can learn and, with a little patience, do a fine job of chinking your own project. Just be sure and start in an inconspicuous place, not by the front door!
You will have a lot more knowledge, and some hands-on experience if you can take a free training seminar from Top Log Sealants and Finishes. We put the tools and the materials into your hands. We try to anticipate and discuss all the things you will run into on your project. We really do want you to do a good job.
You may not have the professional equipment to do an efficient job. Using handguns will take a lot more time than will using a professional quality pump unit, but that may not be a concern if time is not critical. We do have a professional quality Hose Monster pump available for rent as well!
Call us if you have any questions before or during the project. There are no stupid questions, only that stupid feeling you get when you regret not asking the questions.
Should I apply the chinking and caulking before or after I apply the stain and wood finish?
Using the best system, the stains and finishes should be applied BEFORE the chinking and caulking. A compatible water-based finish system creates an excellent adhesive surface for the chinking and caulking adhesion. The recommended process for application of the Weatherall exterior finish system:
Apply two coats pigmented UV Guard or one to two coats of UV Guard II and one coat of Advance Clear topcoat.
Apply Weatherall chinking or caulking.
In the years to come, apply our Advance Clear coat as needed to keep the wood well protected.
If you have NOT chosen a compatible finish system, you may have to apply the stain AFTER application of the chinking and caulking. This is less than ideal, both for appearance and maintenance. With a number of very good quality water-based finish systems on the market, it is seldom desirable to chose an oil-based finish. Remember that freshly applied oil-based systems may cause de-bonding of the chinking and caulking due to the oil residue on the surface. Oil-based (solvent-based) finishes also are very flammable, have a high VOC content, and often need frequent reapplication, especially in areas of high UV exposure. Any stain will discolor the chinking, and no oil-based system has a truly clear maintenance topcoat as do the Weatherall water-based systems. Finally, there is no chinking or caulking material that will be warranted to adhere to any and all oil-based finishes.
Do I have to use a backer-rod?
A backer-rod is also called a bond breaker. Simply put, a bond breaker is a backing that will not stick to the sealant (the chinking or caulking) and will thus allow the material to stretch to maximum elasticity and perform optimally over the entire width of the chink/caulk joint. A sealant that is applied without a bond breaker has almost no ability to stretch because it is directly bonded to a rigid substrate, such as wood. It will almost certainly tear away from the edges of the joint, the weakest part.
Use of a backing also ensures that you do not use way too much chinking or caulking; backing is much less costly than chinking or caulking.
The backing is such an important part of a well-designed sealant system that no log home sealant manufacturer will warranty their chinking products unless a properly installed backing is used.
One exception to this system: In restoration of older log structures where there will be little or no movement of the logs, a bond breaker may not be needed because flexibility of the sealant will not be needed. However, you will still need a backing material that will provide a firm surface for the application of the chinking.
Why does the chinking and caulking material need to be 1/4″ thick?
1/4″ is the best thickness for maximum elasticity, so we recommend you come as close to this thickness as possible. Much thicker, and the sealants cannot stretch as well. Much thinner, and the sealants may tear at the thinnest point.
Some material manufacturers recommend a thickness of 1/2″ on wider joints?
Some softer materials may require more thickness in order to prevent either slumping or tearing on wider joints. However, it is twice as costly to buy twice as much material as you should have to use. 1/4″ thickness is all you need with Weatherall products.
Should the wood surfaces be cleaned before chinking or caulking?
The substrate surfaces must be as clean as possible, without dust, dirt, sawdust,
residual oils, waxes, peeling, flaking finishes, and loose, weak or severely aged wood fibers.
What is the best way to prep the wood surfaces?
This is a very hard question to answer in short. There are a number of different situations and a number of different solutions. In the best circumstances, washing with a mild cleaner and a power wash rinse will be all that is needed. In some other circumstances, there may be old heavy layers of weathering, dirt and previously applied finishes that need to be removed. I would suggest that you call us if you think your project may need anything more than a thorough washing.
Our philosophy is that wood, being an organic cellulose-based material, needs to be treated as gently as possible. Think of it as fine furniture.
Do not use bleach on your wood, ever. It destroys the wood fibers and will cause much more damage and deterioration further down the road.
Be extremely cautious with mechanical cleaning methods such as sand blasting and corn blasting, any type of grit system. It takes skill and expertise to use these systems without damaging the wood and leaving an ugly, chewed-up surface as the result. Check very carefully the references of any restoration company or individual. There are lots of good ones, and unfortunately, more than a few not-so-good ones.
Be careful with power washing. Although not likely to do any real damage to the wood, power washing can leave a fuzzed up wood surface, and force gallons of water inside the building.
Can the chinking and caulking be applied over an old finish?
Chinking and caulking can usually be applied over old finishes, even aged oil finishes, as long as the wood surfaces are clean and dry and the old finish is not flaking or peeling. It is recommended that a test for adhesion of the chinking and caulking be done by applying a small bead to an area that is the least weathered, such as under the eaves. If the sealant adheres to the wood after it is fully cured (3-4 days) then it is probably safe to go ahead with application over the old finish. A clear coat of UV Guard or UV Guard II over an old finish will increase compatibility of the chinking and caulking, and also help protect the wood.
What are the best weather conditions for applying chinking and caulking?
All water-based products are temperature sensitive. Ideal temperatures for application are between 50°F and 80°F. Humidity levels from 30% to 80% are also ideal. It often happens that sealants will have to be applied in less than ideal conditions. Following are some typical situations you might encounter.
Potential problems and solutions:
Wet, humid weather and rain retards the drying time of the products and direct heavy rain can even cause the chinking or caulking to ‘wet out’ and fail before it is able to cure.
Do not apply the sealants when heavy rain is expected. If unexpected rainstorms are imminent, drape the exposed areas of applied sealant with a weatherproof tarp. If the relative humidity is high, expect longer cure times of the sealants.
Hot temperatures, especially in the direct sun, will cause the sealants to become thinner in viscosity, with potential to slump.
Avoid application in temperatures over 90° and never chink in hot direct sunlight. Start on the shady side of the building and move around the building, staying in the shade.
Dry or very windy situations may cause the sealants to dry too quickly, making them difficult to tool before skinning over.
Avoid applying long lines of materials before tooling. You may need to apply only a few feet of material and quickly tool short sections. . It is also possible to add a drying time extender, such as Flotrol™, to the sealants. (Follow all instructions carefully.)
Freezing temperatures will cause the water in the sealants to separate from the latexes. This will affect the ability of the sealant to cure and perform properly.
Do not plan to apply sealants unless there is adequate time for the material to cure before the temperature drops below freezing. This can take several hours to several days, depending upon the relative humidity. If it is unavoidable to chink during freezing temperatures, the building must be tented and heated until the material is fully cured.
Cold and damp weather means cold and damp wood, which may keep the chinking and caulking from adhering properly.
Allow the wood to dry out and warm up following any period of cold and damp.
Sealants applied during cold weather, even when only the nights are cold, can take two or three times longer to cure.
What is the difference between chinking and caulking and how do I know which to use?
Weatherall Triple Stretch Chinking is an elastic caulking product that contains natural sand, giving it a textured surface and the true appearance of mortar. It is very easy to tool, and is especially well suited for joints wider than 3/4″. It is used to give an old style chinked look to all types of log homes and log-sided homes. It seals the structure and helps make it weather tight.
Weatherall Textured Caulking also contains a fine textured aggregate but is more elastic than the Triple Stretch chinking. It is especially suited for tighter joints, where a textured, matte sealant is desired for beauty and aesthetic purposes. The viscosity is softer than Triple Stretch Chinking.
Textured Caulking is available in a range of shades chosen to compliment popular stain colors on log and wood homes. It is often used when the desired effect is that the sealant blend in and ‘disappear’ rather than contrast. For example, Textured caulking is great for filling upward facing checks in logs that have the opportunity to hold moisture in logs that can lead to rot and trouble in the future.
Weatherall UV Guard Premium Caulking is a smooth latex caulking often used for weatherization and sealing in areas where maximum elasticity is needed: tiny cracks or around window and door frames, etc.
All Weatherall sealants adhere well to a variety of surfaces: wood, metal, concrete, even glass.
Will the chinking and caulking need to be repaired or reapplied?
Weatherall chinking and caulking products should last the life of the structure. We chinked our first home with Weatherall over 30 years ago, and it still looks as good as new. All Weatherall chinking and caulking products, when properly applied, come with a LIFETIME material warranty.
Practically speaking, most construction has at least a few small areas that are going to be a problem, and no applicator can guarantee flawless results in these areas. In certain situations, such as connections to dynamically moving substrates, repairs might need to be done as the structure settles. For example, if a frame wall is chinked to a log wall, and the log wall subsequently settles an inch, that joint will almost certainly need repair.
Other than severe settling or movement in a structure, the major concern is water.
Continual exposure to very wet conditions, such as water running down a log wall, may also cause materials to fail and need repair. (The water problem causing the failure will of course need to be fixed first.)
Can Weatherall chinking be applied over old concrete chinking or other old joint sealants?
Older log homes were often sealed with concrete chinking,or a rubber mastic or acrylic rubber caulking.
If the concrete chinking is in good shape, not crumbly or loose, it can be successfully covered with a coat of Weatherall chinking at about 1/8″ thickness. This will seal up the gaps, preserve the chink joint, and spruce up the building, but will not add insulation value. Ideally, the old concrete chinking would be removed and new foam insulation / backing installed prior to application of the Weatherall chinking. This is a big job, however, and needs careful consideration and preparation.
In situations where there is old degraded caulking or mastic, Weatherall chinking can also be applied right over the top. The finished joint will look like new. By necessity it will be a little bit wider than the original. For good adhesion, extend the new chinking onto the wood on either side of the old sealant.
Do I need to be concerned about the moisture content of the wood?
Logs or wood siding that are very wet (‘green’) will eventually dry to the ambient exterior humidity or interior humidity. Generally, exterior wood dries slowly over the first few years after construction, while interior wood can dry very quickly due to heating of the building during the first cold season. How much the wood shrinks and twists is determined by the amount of moisture lost during the curing time, by the ambient humidity of the region, and by how quickly the wood dries. We recommend maximum moisture content of 25% at one inch below the surface at the time of chinking or caulking. (This can be measured with a lignometer with a 1″ probe – a tool you may need to rent or borrow, or buy if you are in the chinking business.)
How long will the finishes last on the exterior?
Finishes that are applied following Weatherall recommended guidelines can go many years with only simple maintenance.
There are areas on any structure that are going to need more attentive and frequent maintenance than other areas. On our log home we have a tall southwestern wall that receives direct afternoon sunlight (intense Rocky Mountain sunlight) and also receives the brunt of weather coming out of our canyon. We find that reapplication of the Clear coat on that wall is necessary every 3-4 years. The other three sides of our home are protected either by generous overhangs, porches or simply by having a northern or eastern exposure, and those sides we recoat with Clear only about every 6-8 years. Obviously, maintenance is situational.
It is best to play close attention to the appearance of the wood, examining it yearly. When it starts to appear dull and dry, it is time for another protective coat of Clear, which will both rejuvenate the finish and add another layer of protection. If the degradation of the finish goes so far that the pigmented stain coat is affected, then maintenance is much more difficult. The stain coat may have to be reapplied and the wood may have weathered unevenly, necessitating stripping or sanding.
A simple test to use: spray the surface of the wood lightly with water. If the water beads up, the integrity of the finish is still good. If the water soaks right into the wood, it is time for a recoat.
What about finishes for horizontal surfaces?
Any horizontal wooden surface exposed directly to the weather will require more maintenance, no matter what type of finish or preservative product is used. Railings are often the most challenging, being out in the weather and exposed to continual rain, snow and sun. We suggest that a mildewcide additive be combined with the finish anytime it will be applied to wood that is horizontal or completely exposed to long periods of wetting.
Decks are a special problem. Not only are they horizontal surfaces, they are also scuffed with foot traffic, pets, snow shovels, etc. Weatherall manufactures no products for decks, and when we do find a really good deck product from another manufacturer, we’ll let you know.
What is the best way to clean and prep exterior logs and wood surfaces?
Following are some general guidelines on cleaning logs and wood exteriors. We would be happy to talk with you and make certain that the best approach is being chosen for your particular situation.
Reapplication of a maintenance finish coat – make sure the wood is really clean before application of another finish coat. Log-Gevity Log Maintenance Wash is an excellent product that will remove dirt and oxidation while maintaining the integrity of the finish. Gentle pressure washing often is best, but hand washing and rinsing with a garden hose is an acceptable alternative. Always rinse really well and allow the wood to dry thoroughly before applying the new finish coat.
New construction – if the soiling is only construction dirt, black marks, and perhaps a little bit of fading, we recommend New Log Prep cleaner. This product restores the wood to its original color, while opening the grain, enabling better penetration of the wood finish. Black scuff marks and pencil marks can often be removed with a gum rubber eraser. If sanding is required to remove some marks, we recommend using an Osborn buffing brush, which is much gentler than sandpaper. Although this tool may still leave an area lighter than the surrounding wood, it is more readily blended in and will not be noticeable in a short period of time.
Old oil-based transparent finishes, very dirty or water-stained wood – a stronger cleaning product is required to deal with these situations. We have had much success with Log-Gevity Bio Strip gel formula, a product designed to remove a variety of coatings, although not so successfully used on solid body stains, heavy latexes or paint.
Heavy layers of old finishes – in this situation either a heavier stripper or mechanical cleaning methods are necessary. We recommend Log-Gevity Citrus Log Stripper if you prefer a stripping product; it is biodegradable, non-caustic, and has a balanced pH that requires no neutralizing. Blasting with grit media (sand, glass) is also effective, but use caution and know that these methods will almost certainly leave a rough, pockmarked surface on the wood. We don’t recommend corn cob, even though it is economical and biodegradable. It lodges in every little check and fissure in the wood, eventually rots and can cause future growth of mildew and subsequent wood rot.
Our philosophy is that wood, being an organic cellulose-based material, needs to be treated as gently as possible. Think of it as fine furniture.
Do not use bleach on your wood, ever. It destroys the wood fibers and will cause much more damage and deterioration further down the road.
Be extremely cautious with mechanical cleaning methods such as sand blasting and corn blasting, any type of grit system. It takes skill and expertise to use these systems without damaging the wood and leaving a pockmarked and porous surface. Check very carefully the references of any restoration company or individual. There are lots of good ones, and unfortunately, too many number of not good ones.
Be careful with power washing. Although less likely to do damage to the wood, using too much pressure can cause removal of the softer wood, leaving an uneven surface. Even lower pressure power washing can leave a fuzzed up wood surface and these fuzzy fibers should be removed with an Osborn Buffing Brush or a ‘scotchbrite’ pad prior to application of the finish. Pressure washing also has the potential to force gallons of water inside the building through checks and unsealed joints.
Can your products be applied over an oil-based stain?
If you have an existing oil-based finish that is in good condition, you will not be able to go over with any of the Weatherall products as all Weatherall products are water based and will not be able to penetrate through the oil.
If your oil-based stain is old and brittle and failing you may be able to put a water-based stain over the top. You should always try a test spot in an inconspicuous spot to make sure that it is in fact possible.
If you would prefer to stay with an oil-based finish, we carry one oil-based stain call Transformation Log and Timber by Sashco. It is a premium quality semi-transparent penetrating oil based exterior finish. It is particularly well suited to be applied as a new coating on a new construction but can also be applied over older faded oil-based finishes.
If your previous finish contains paraffin or wax, or is a non-drying oil, it will have to be removed completely before the application of any new product. These types of finishes are rarely used, but if you have any questions about the previous finish, please call us.
How can we retain the natural color of the wood on the exterior of our new home?
To keep the new color of your wood, look for a light colored semi-transparent stain that is very similar to the color you want to maintain. It is very strongly recommended that a Clear finish NOT be used alone.
Homes that are coated with clear finishes do not have near the amount of protection from UV damage and discoloration. Pigments add a significant amount of UV protection, more than can be added to any clear finish. A home with only a clear finish will look good for only a short period of time, then will appear to be faded in some areas, darker in others, generally blotchy and weathered looking. Pigmented finishes last longer than clear finishes because the pigments act as sun blockers / reflectors.
What is the best method for applying Weatherall finishes?
The best method of application is either brush alone, or spray application followed by back brushing. Either a hand-pump sprayer may be used, or an airless sprayer with a fine tip (.013 to .019). Back brushing works the material into the grain of the wood and brushes out runs. You should back-brush immediately if using a sprayer; this is best done as a two-person project unless brushing alone is chosen.
Keep the brushes clean by periodically rinsing them in clean water. This keeps a gummy layer of finish from building up on the brush. A gummed up brush will not work the finish into the wood and may actually help pull the finish off of the wood.
Introduction
We get a lot of questions from log homeowners concerning insects; sometimes insects they have discovered in their homes already, or from homeowners trying to be proactive about potential insect damage.
It is true, that being built of wood, log homes may have potential problems with insects such as termites and carpenter ants that can cause structural problems. But there is no evidence that this is any more of a concern than it would be in a wood frame home.
Flies may certainly be an issue in log homes; this is most typical in certain areas of the country, in new homes, and in homes that have not been well sealed.
Here is our advice on some of the most common insects you may find in your log home:
Carpenter Ants?
Carpenter ants differ from termites by having dark-colored bodies, narrow waists, elbowed (bent) antennae, and hind wings shorter than front wings (if they have wings). Carpenter ants are very common and are frequently seen in the open. They feed on protein and sugar and do not eat wood. They only remove wood as they create their homes in the wood.
Carpenter ants are kind of like the ‘canary in the coal mine’: if you have carpenter ants nesting in your home, then you almost certainly have rotting wood in your home. Carpenter ants nest in moist or decayed wood; they are unable to chew (tunnel) through sound, solid wood.
You may also have carpenter ant nests outside of your home in rotting trees, stumps or old lumber piles. In this case, you may see them in your home when they are foraging. When you clean up that debris outside, which might be the only solution needed, you may solve the problem entirely.
It is sometimes hard to know whether the ants are nesting inside or outside the building. If you find carpenter ants in your home in winter, they are most likely nesting inside the building. Finding a lot of winged ants indoors is also a good indicator that the ants are nesting inside the house. (A few ants may come in with firewood during the winter.) To find the colony: look for small piles of sawdust or set out bait (small pieces of meat or other protein) and patiently follow the ants. Small children are good at this.
You may choose pest control products to eliminate the ants temporarily, but the ants will go away permanently only when their nesting sites are eliminated. No insecticide will remedy the problem of moisture in wood; only structural repair will take care of that. . . . and will also save your home from a lot more damage from moisture and decay. We have had carpenter ants in our home twice; once indicating a skylight was leaking and another time indicating failed flashing on a stone chimney. When the structural repairs were made, the ants were gone.
We recommend that you contact a professional pest control company for application of insecticides. A professional contractor, perhaps along with a building
inspector, should be consulted to examine the problems of structural moisture damage.
Carpenter Bees?
Carpenter bees are large black and yellow bees that may be mistaken for bumble bees, often seen under the eaves of the house or under a deck. (They differ from honeybees in that they have a shiny black tail section.) They are more often found in the southern states than the northern states. Like carpenter ants, carpenter bees excavate tunnels in wood for their nests. Unlike carpenter ants, they can more readily excavate sound wood, especially unpainted wood, weathered wood or softwood species.
Look for round half-inch diameter holes with a telltale trace of coarse sawdust underneath it. The female bees excavate the holes to lay their eggs and they do not form colonies. They just have a lot of children, who move out but still stay in the neighborhood. They seldom become numerous enough to cause structural damage.
A non-insecticidal approach can be used to eliminate carpenter bees. Seal each entrance hole with caulking, forcing the caulking back into the tunnel as far as possible.
A preventative approach may be taken by applying a coat of wood finish containing Bug Juice, a contact insecticide that will kill the bees when they walk on the treated wood surfaces. This is best done in the early spring when the bees become active. Unfortunately, this type of poison also kills honeybees and other beneficial insects. Use it only as a last resort. Insecticides that act as stomach poisons, such as borates, are not effective, as the bees do not ingest the wood they excavate.
Termites?
Termites resemble large ants, but are light colored, have straight antennae, and have no waist constriction. They avoid light and are rarely seen outside their colony, except when they develop wings and swarm to start new colonies in the spring.
Discovering winged termites indoors is almost always a sign of a termite infestation. Other signs are earthen (mud) tubes, usually about the diameter of a pencil, extending over foundations, floor joists, etc. Often there will be no visible signs that the building is infected, and a professional inspector should be consulted. Control of termites requires special skills and is best left to professionals.
The best approach to preventing termite damage is to prevent termite infestation from the onset with good design and construction. Keep the ground around the foundation dry with the use of gutters, sloped ground, and drains. Reduce humidity in the crawl space, attic, bathrooms and laundry rooms with proper ventilation. Remove tree stumps and wood debris from around the building and keep shrubbery and trellises, etc. away from the building. Eliminate any wood contact with soil; an 18” clearance is ideal.
Borate preservatives may be used to help protect against termites, but are no guarantee if the termites can tunnel over the treated wood to another entry area. Termite entry can also be gained through checks, gaps and cut or cracked wood ends.
Cluster Flies?
The Cluster Fly is the number one annoying insect problem in many log homes. Cluster flies are not the common houseflies; they are slightly larger and belong to a different genus (Pollenia rudis). Cluster flies are very common in the fall when they are trying to find protected sites to spend the winter. You will find them on sunny walls outdoors, and in sunny windows on the inside of your home. You might even find hundreds of them on a warm sunny day autumn day. We find they most prefer to come out in droves when we’re having a dinner party, circle the light over the dining room table, buzz loudly for three or four loops, and then make an ungraceful landing in a dinner plate. (They are not known to carry any diseases, and may be considered a source of minerals and protein.)
Contrary to belief, they are not reproducing inside your home. Cluster flies lay their eggs outdoors on the soil surface and the larva burrow into the earth to feed on earthworms. This goes on all summer long, and only when the weather begins to turn cold do the current generation of flies seek a nice protected site to spend the cold winter.
Sealing up your home is the best way to keep cluster flies from entering. Cracks around doors and windows, underneath the fascia, around exhaust fans and ceiling fixtures, checks in logs, log ends, and any other openings should be diligently sealed with good-quality chinking or caulking. When caulking log joints, experience has proven to us that tiny beads of caulking do not do the job. A caulking line of at least 1/4” in width is an effective long-term solution.
Many log homes built in the past, and even some being built today, have roof structures that will allow the flies to enter. In a typical log home, the roof system may consist of a ceiling of wood decking, with insulation, plywood and tarpaper on top of that, finished on the outside with shingles or metal roofing. If the joints in the plywood were not carefully caulked, this is going to be a roof that will allow a lot of flies to penetrate into the inside. Most contractors today will seal all the joints in the roof structure as it is built, ensuring that there are no tiny cracks or fissures left unsealed.
Insecticides such a synthetic pyrethroid may offer some relief when applied to the exterior openings in the home. They are most effective in the fall, just prior to fly congregation. Because these materials break down quickly, especially in sunlight, they do not last long and will have to be reapplied often. It is not realistically possible to kill flies that have already hidden in wall voids or in the roof structure. Aerosol type pyrethrum foggers are not effective in these areas and are not recommended. You can only kill them when they come out to visit: I use a food service safe pyrethroid aerosol when they get too abundant, a fly swatter otherwise.